A List of Random Updates on Life

I can't think of how to tie these all into a narrative, and I wasn't on top of things enough to make them each into their own blog post in the moment, so you get a list!

1. I decided to go to the Aveda salon here in Tokyo to see how they would do at cutting and coloring my hair. My hair is VERY different from Japanese hair, so finding somebody here who can handle my hair is an issue of concern. I think I put the fear of God into them with regard to not cutting too many layers into my hair, because the scissors barely touched my head. But all in all, the hair cut was pretty good. The color wasn’t quite perfect (faded to brassy blond super fast), but I’m willing to give them another shot. I mention all of this here, not because you care about my hair trials and tribulations, but because the experience was pretty amazing! They brought me tea and a variety of magazines to read (e.g. InStyle UK).  Nothing terribly unusual there, but…  They poured oil on my head before giving me a very nice head massage and washing my hair, and I got to choose which aroma I wanted. (I chose ylang ylang.) I also got a little shoulder massage after going back to the chair the last time. When they colored my hair, they put little miniature shower caps over my ears. They put a pillow on my lap under the robe so that the magazine I was flipping through would be easier to read. And the big “feel like a celebrity” moment: when I was flipping through an Italian Vogue while 2 people dried my hair. It was really nice. If they can get my hair color right next time, I would be very happy to continue going there. 

2.  I started taking nihon jujutsu (aka: self defense). One of my regrets is that I never took self defense in college. But when I came to Tokyo, I went to an Embassy event where I could check out the many clubs and classes that I could take part in, and the judo club sensei mentioned that he was thinking of starting a self defense class. It’s Saturday mornings on the compound, so my commute is about 3 minutes. I’ve only been to two classes so far, so I’m not going to be challenging people to attack me any time soon, but I should be able to step out of the way of any drunk guy at a reception.

3.  I got the Sonos set up in my apartment.  Now I can listen to Pandora AND my favorite radio stations from DC.  If I just sit at home, I can pretend I’m in America!

4.  Speaking of America…  I went out to Yokota Air Base a week ago.  It was like stepping into a bit of America – except filled with men wearing flight suits!   Wide streets, spacious parking lots, a huge commissary that looks just like a large U.S. grocery store filled with things I recognize with labels I can read…  When I was in Brazil, the thing that I didn’t realize I missed until I saw it and got totally giddy was root beer.  For some reason, the thing that got me all excited this time: the wide escalator in the Yokota AB Community Center.  Yes, I got giddy over an escalator.  But, seriously!  That thing was wide!  Two people could stand side by side and not even touch each other!  Two large people!  It was very exciting.

Eating and drinking in Tokyo

I’ve already talked about how amazing the food is here in Tokyo.  About 10 minutes walk from the compound, I can find the best pho I’ve ever had.  A short subway ride away, you can find the best cream puffs EVER and an excellent bakery – and I now have point cards for both stores (danger!). 

A few weeks ago, I went to my first sushi restaurant, where I had my first wasabi experience.  They put the wasabi on for you – possibly because they don’t trust you to do it properly – and I was rather surprised by the sudden clearing of my sinuses.  It kind of reminded me of when I drank that ginger drink that a friend from Cote d’Ivoire made once in Brazil.  Not a bad taste, but very surprising when you are not expecting it!

I went to a lovely afternoon tea on the the 45^th floor of the Ritz Carlton recently with a few friends, and I am very much looking forward to trying the other excellent afternoon teas that I hear can be found around Tokyo. 

But tea isn’t the only thing you can drink in Japan…

I don’t know what a Pocari is or why I would want to drink its sweat, but it’s pretty tasty.

Calpis.  A favorite name among 10-year old boys – or, based on a survey of the office, among grown men also.  Tastes a lot better than you might expect.

Yes, that is a snake in a sake bottle.  You will never see me so much as touch this bottle.  I will certainly never drink any of it.

Mt. Takao

Two weeks ago, I went on an excursion to Mt. Takao, a small mountain about an hour and a half away.  

Because I am completely out of shape, my intention was to take the cable car or the chair lift up the mountain and walk back down. So I followed the crowd, and the crowd led me astray. I ended up on the longest and steepest of the trail options.

By the time I figured out that the crowd had veered off before reaching the chair lift, I was part way up the mountain. And then I looked around and saw the toddlers and grandmas and grandpas also climbing the mountain, and it became a matter of pride to keep going.  







It was a beautiful hike. I imagine that it is hugely popular when the leaves turn color. I took A LOT of pictures on the way up the mountain, which had absolutely no correlation with taking breaks. 

Between all of the little gods posted along the path and the stream of people, it looked a lot like a pilgrimage. Apparently, Mt. Takao is a sacred mountain and has been a center of mountain worship for more than 1,000 years.  Near the top of the mountain is a Buddhist temple complex where a lot of the hikers stand in lines to ring various bells and pray.

After going up to the top and getting a hazy glimpse of the very top of Mt. Fuji, I hiked back to a restaurant just outside the gate of the temple and had some noodles.

I took the chair lift back down, partly to save time and partly because I wasn’t sure I had time to walk back. It was really nice to have the opportunity to get out of the city and to see that I don't have to go too far to see nature.

Packing Out: A Short Story

During the craziness of summer relocation season, one of my friends informed me that I did not adequately warn him about the insanity that is packing out. You hear stories about garbage being shipped around the world, but until you’ve experienced it, you just don’t understand. So, just for the record, here’s a general idea of how it can play out.

4 months before: If you are Type A enough, this is when you start thinking about how you really need to start putting together your household inventory – a process that is both important for insurance purposes and useful in getting you to decide what goes on the boat, what goes into storage and what is junk. However, since this is your third international move, you only have to update the inventory, and how much can you have accumulated in 3 years anyway? So you go read a book.

3 months before: You mess around with the household inventory a bit, updating it with major new items, and then decide you’ve got plenty of time. So you go read a book.

2 months before: You realize how few free weekends you have before packing out. You decide to forget about the stupid household inventory (it’s close enough!) and start going through closets and throwing things away. That bottle of shampoo that you don’t like overly much but keep around “just in case” does not need to be shipped overseas… for the third time.

1 month before: You start moving things around the apartment, creating separate zones for those items destined for storage and those items destined for shipment.

1 week before: Move? What move? You have to study for your final language exam!

1-2 days before: You drive 6 hours round trip to take the cat down to your mom’s house, because you don’t want her (the cat) to end up in a box on a slow boat to Tokyo. When you return to your house, you do all the laundry, pull everything off the walls, create a pile of items for your air shipment, put giant “STORAGE” and “GROUND” post-its on everything, get all garbage out of the house, realize that you probably should have gone through those things over there, but oh well, and just generally create chaos.

Pack-out Day 1: You realize that, although you’ve spent the last year studying Japanese, the language that you really need to know right now is Spanish. Unfortunately, you don’t speak Spanish, and your Portuguese is mixed up with Japanese, so your primary means of communication with the very nice, very hard working Team Day 1 is to point at piles and say “GO” or “NO GO” (i.e. HHE/UAB or storage). Anything more than that, and the looks on their faces do not give you confidence that they understand. By Hour 9, you are tired from trying to keep up with the packing going on in 3 different parts of the apartment. When you find them putting curtains into a box – the same curtains that you told them 5 times do not go to Japan – and they don’t understand when you ask where they put the other curtains, you decide that you don’t really care that much. By Hour 10, you stop watching them. Unfortunately, that’s also when Team Day 1, which has been working non-stop, packing and going up and down the stairs between the truck and your 3^rd-floor apartment, is also very tired and starts just throwing things into boxes. Except for the throw rugs, which they tell you that you don’t really want to ship to Tokyo. And you believe them.

Pack-out Day 2: This is the day for packing stuff for storage. This is much easier, because all you have to do is wave your arm at the apartment and say, “it all goes”. 

Now, if you were going to Brazil, it would be 3 1/2 months before you’d see your things again. But you’re going to Japan, and when you go to Japan, you can get your stuff in less than 2 months! So the nice men come to deliver the three crates with your name stamped on the side of them, and you are SO HAPPY! It’s like Christmas in September! But remember when you gave up on watching the packers because you were really tired? Well, now you have tubs full of childhood memories showing up in Tokyo – the same tubs that you thought were in a storage unit in Virginia, and that still have giant “STORAGE” post-its on the top and side – and you praise God for the tiny storage cage that you’ve been allotted in the basement. You also praise God that you won’t have to do this again for another 3 or 4 years.

Settling, eating and exploring

Greetings from rainy Tokyo!  I keep hoping that the rain will usher in Fall weather, but so far no such luck.  The other morning, I was lying in bed, listening to the rain and wondering what shoes I could wear for the walk to work, when it occurred to me that maybe it was time to buy rain boots.  So my first pair of rain boots in probably 30 years is now zooming across the ocean to me.

Besides the occasional rain, the last few weeks have involved settling, eating and exploring. 

Settling: I moved into my permanent housing last weekend!  I’m very happy to be here.  It’s a good space, and I am looking forward to decorating it.  Slipcovers for the sofa, chair and ottoman have been ordered (to protect them from the kitty and because they are not attractive).  Shower curtains for both bathrooms are also on the way.  I’ve already put much of the welcome kit down in my storage unit and dragged furniture all over the apartment.  I receive my stuff on Wednesday afternoon (WOOHOO!), at which point settling in will begin in earnest.

Eating: We’ve been doing a bunch of lunches, receptions and dinners so that my boss and I (who both arrived last month) can meet contacts.  And then there are the regular work receptions.  In one month, I’ve been to more receptions than I think I went to during my entire tour in Brazil.  Since I don’t have most of my kitchen stuff yet, it’s kind of nice to not have to cook hardly at all, and I appreciate the opportunity to visit a bunch of restaurants.  However, I’ll be lucky to not gain 20 pounds by the end of this!  Thankfully (for my weight and my feet), I hear that October will be a slow month before all of the pre-New Year’s and New Year’s receptions start.  The goal is to start exercising again and eat healthy for the month of October.  I should probably also invest in some salts for soaking my feet… 

Takahata Fudo temple

Takahata Fudo temple

Exploring: Last weekend I went with some colleagues and their families to a shrine sale (aka: flea market) at Takahata Fudo temple, which is about an hour away.  Because it was raining off and on, there weren’t a ton of vendors, but I still managed to buy an obi and a scroll for my office (which is in serious need of decorating) and take a lot of pictures of the lovely grounds. 

Takahata Fudo temple

An hour after returning home, I heard the drum from the festival at the shrine next door and quickly forgot about aching feet, grabbed my camera, and headed back out the door.  It was my first Japanese festival (of which I hear there are a ton).  It was a lot of fun.  There was food and drinks and games for the kids and people in their kimonos dancing around the drum (like Japanese line dancing). 

I was going to do some more exploring this weekend, but then I saw that it was going to rain – which cuts down on my picture-taking – so I decided to putter around the house.  My goal is to get everything put away before the majority of my worldly belongings arrive this week.

Happy Fall!

First impressions

I have a plan to take at least one day each weekend to play tourist. So far, I’ve been to the major Shinto shrine in Tokyo (Meiji Jingu) and the major Buddhist temple in Tokyo (Senso-Ji), as well as a few other places of interest. I also had a work trip that involved my first Shinkansen (high-speed train) trip. We spent an afternoon in Nagoya, and then spent the night and the next day in Osaka. Osaka is quite different from Tokyo, but I’ll need to spend a bit more time there (and here) before I can write something about the differences. One amusing part of the trip was when we were waiting for the train and some young Japanese men tried to take a picture of us foreigners without our knowledge. (One guy just happened to pose for a picture where we were the only thing in the background.) I don’t know if it was because my boss is 6’5”, or because we were not Asian, but they seemed rather proud of themselves for having “discreetly” taken the picture.

Gate to Senso-Ji temple

First impressions of the weather: Hot and humid! My hair is constantly curly. My clothes feel damp when I put them on. Because of energy conservation efforts since shutting down the nuclear power plants, it is hot and humid everywhere. The embassy is following “cool biz” (light on the air conditioning, so people don’t have to wear a suit and tie all the time), which means that the embassy has been at about 77F with 55ish percent humidity since I arrived. On the positive side, I’m not constantly freezing in the office due to high a/c, so yeah!

Unfortunate weather observation: My body reacts to August in Tokyo the same way it does to the rainy season in Brazil. Lots of migraines. After three in my first week, I went to the med unit, and the doctor prescribed the same medication that worked for me in Brazil. That should take care of that.

Amusing weather observation: Some Chinese government people came to Tokyo for a multilateral meeting and were surprised by Tokyo’s blue sky. Remind me not to bid on Beijing in the future.

First impression of nature: Cicadas. Great big, noisy cicadas like I haven’t seen since Brazil. Have I mentioned that they’re big?

First impression of Japanese society: Order. When they’re told to stand behind the line (for shopping or protests or whatever), they stand behind the line. They form lines *everywhere*. Giant crowd of people waiting to get on an escalator? They wait in a long line. 

Second impression of Japanese society: Timeliness. A seminar is scheduled to start at 2pm? Everybody is in their seats and quiet at 1:58, and the seminar starts at 2:00. I suspect that the organizers would be humbly apologizing and offering gifts in recompense if the seminar started at 2:05. The average arrival time for the shinkansen: thirty-four seconds late. Average. Thirty-four seconds. WMATA should take lessons!

Shinkansen

Third impression of Japanese society: Perfectionism. Food/drinks are carefully packaged so that you may enjoy them in their original, perfect state when you reach your destination. You can find the best cream puffs EVER in Shibuya. They don’t put the cream in the puff until you place your order, and the cream is so light and delicious!! Shaved ice outside Senso-Ji temple is truly shaved, so it just melts in your mouth. No crunching. I haven’t tried the macarons in Midtown yet, but they look amazing.

More food: When I was in Brazil, I loved Schweppes Citrus, but we don’t have it in the States. However, in Japan they have Schweppes British Lemon Tonic, which seems to be the same thing. I’m so happy!

I’ve already discovered that, while there are plenty of challenges (e.g. I can't read a thing!), in many ways, it is very easy to live here. The 100 Yen stores (dollar stores) are amazing and full of tons of useful stuff. There are vending machines with drinks (water, tea, coffee (hot or cold), soda, etc) EVERYWHERE – on the streets or in the subway. I’ve counted four Starbucks and two Tully’s within a ten-minute walk of the housing compound. There’s also a Frijoles, which is remarkably similar to Chipotles, and if I walk just a bit farther, there’s a Cold Stone Creamery (where they sang a little song while mixing my ice cream, which naturally makes it taste MUCH better), Outback Steakhouse, TGI Friday’s, etc. And those are just the American restaurants.  There are tons and tons of other restaurants. There is an excellent pho place not far away. In the opposite direction, there's a Wendy’s, where - only in Japan! - you can spend $20 on a Foie Gras Burger. I’ll let you try it and tell me how it tastes. 

Takeshita Street in Harajuku - All things girly and a huge dollar store

There are many more things, but I’ll save them for another day. Next Monday is a holiday (Respect for the Aged Day), and I’ll finally have access to my permanent housing, so that’ll be nice. I’m sure the cat will be THRILLED to move again.  

GO GO SWALLOWS (pt 2)

This is Japan, so of course there are already videos of the cheers on YouTube!  

Here is the Yakult Swallows song for when they score.

And here is most of the Chunichi Dragons cheer that I like, but after the point where they start to speed up and then go into the actual song.  You can also hear the banging together of the bats that I was talking about (although you see a little of it with the Swallows video).  If I find a better video, I'll repost.

Happy Labor Day!